🤐 After a hundred years: New zipper that is more flexible and reduces emissions

• YKK has developed a zipper without the woven fabric that normally sits on the sides of the teeth.
• The new zipper weighs less, is more flexible and reduces both material use and emissions.
• The North Face and other clothing companies have started using the new technology in their products.

Lighter and more flexible

The zipper has not undergone any major changes since the 1910s. It has been reliable, durable, cheap and easy to sew. But materials have evolved. Designers now work with lightweight nylon fabrics, stretch fabrics and technical blends. The old zipper with its woven edges and stiff seams does not fit as well with modern fabrics.

YKK, the Japanese company that manufactures roughly half of the world's zippers, has developed a new model that lacks the woven fabric that usually holds the teeth in place. The new zipper is called AiryString.

Makoto Nishizaki, vice president of YKK's Application Development Division, says the company wanted to address the challenges involved in zipper sewing. The idea grew out of a collaboration with JUKI Corporation, a company that manufactures industrial sewing machines.

Without the woven fabric on the sides, the zipper becomes lighter and more flexible. It lies flatter against the body and moves more naturally with the fabric. But removing the fabric created technical problems. The fabric strips give the zipper structure and are what seamstresses sew through.

YKK had to redesign the teeth, rewrite the manufacturing process and develop new machines to attach the zipper to clothing. The absence of the tape posed various production challenges. The company had to develop new manufacturing equipment and a dedicated sewing machine for integration.

The company conducts repeated durability and strength tests by sewing AiryString and conventional zippers into various fabrics. In terms of usability, AiryString offers much smoother operability.

Reduces environmental impact

The new zipper uses less material than conventional zippers. It also reduces work in customers' sewing processes. Additionally, fiber use and water consumption in the dyeing process are reduced, which lowers carbon dioxide emissions.

YKK offers a version of AiryString that is made from 100 percent recycled material. The company operates in 70 countries and regions, and their trademark is registered in 180 countries. When a company manufactures billions of zippers per year, small improvements have a large effect globally.

First companies testing

Descente Japan, known for technical sportswear, was among the first to test AiryString in 2022. The North Face has selected the system for its new Summit Series Advanced Mountain Kit. Smaller brands like Earthletica, an eco-conscious brand for swim and performance wear, have also tested the zipper. They describe it as soft, flexible, and almost silent.

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